Wine in Ukraine has long ceased to be an attribute of only festive events, and the profession of a sommelier is no longer something mysterious and unattainable. How have the tastes of Ukrainians changed in recent years, why have stereotypes about sommeliers long stopped corresponding to reality, how do television projects affect professional reputation, and is it easy for a woman to build a career in an industry that until recently was dominated by men? Exclusively for the international glossy magazine Business Woman, this is shared by Alina Pukhalska — a star sommelier who has worked with the largest wine list in Ukraine, host of the show “Po Khatakh” (Visiting Houses), and one of the most famous experts of wine culture in the country.
You worked with one of the largest wine lists in Ukraine. How has the culture of wine consumption among Ukrainians changed?
This wine list is the largest in Ukraine, it includes more than two thousand positions, it is unique and the only one of its kind. The culture of wine consumption is gradually changing, Ukrainians are becoming more conscious in this matter, but so far this number of people is quite small. Most still prefer basic sparkling drinks like Prosecco or choose Fragolino, a popular drink according to sales statistics, which is strange to me because it is not wine at all. And such sparkling wines as Champagne, Franciacorta, Crémant, Sekt, Cap Classique, Alta Langa, made by the traditional method, unfortunately, are in low demand among Ukrainian consumers. Therefore, my colleagues and I are constantly working on this issue.
We must understand that today wine remains a niche product for a rather small part of Ukrainians. Such people regularly and consciously consume it and have basic knowledge about wine types, varieties, etc. They have their own tasting portfolio, they understand their taste, and they attend tastings. But if we conduct a survey among all Ukrainians and ask whether they have been to a tasting at least once, or if they have drunk Franciacorta, for example, we will get no more than 10% of the population involved. If you look at Europe, the statistics will show completely opposite data than in Ukraine. This is not surprising; we are still on the way.
Ukrainian men, unfortunately, prefer strong spirits; the sales leader is vodka, unfortunately. And women choose basic cocktails, sparkling Fragolino, etc. Since the beginning of the full-scale invasion, Ukrainians have gradually begun to pay attention to craft producers and buy their wine, although so far only in a certain price category. Of course, there are exceptions, some consumers choose premium options, but this is a rarity, which explains production volumes of a few thousand bottles a year. And this is nothing for a large market of a big country.
A significant victory is that Ukrainians have begun to consume specifically Ukrainian wines; wine is always about the identity of the mentality. A conscious choice often leads a person to wine, so various producers have begun to expand their lines. And for good reason, because in Ukraine there are very competitive wine positions that have already been appreciated in Europe.
I think that the next stage for Ukrainian producers will be the production of non-alcoholic wines; currently, there are none due to the expensive cost of production and the unreadiness of Ukrainians to pay for Ukrainian wine the same as for European wine. Over the past ten years, the demand for Ukrainian products has grown significantly, not only in the context of wine but in the local production of any product. It has always been interesting for me to go beyond the boundaries; despite the fact that I am a sommelier, this is only part of my job, and as a whole, the hotel, restaurant, and service business sphere is a creative environment for me, where any changes can be made.
Therefore, we continue to move, slowly, but any movement is a victory, especially in conditions like now, which speaks of the great potential of Ukraine as a country of winemakers and wine consumers. I think that in 50-70 years, the share of conscious wine consumers will increase by 30%, and my team and I will contribute to this. I believe that the world is divided into wine lovers and those who do not know about it yet. Therefore, it only remains to convince the second half and tell them more about wine.
What myth about the sommelier profession do you have to debunk most often?
Personally, I very often hear that “sommeliers consume a lot of alcohol”, “a female sommelier is worse than a male sommelier”, “a beautiful woman cannot be smart”. But it is enough for my team and me to prove the opposite from the first minutes of conversation. If you look at all the women working in the wine industry, not only in the position of sommelier, you can see that they hold key positions, interesting posts, and bring something new to production. Each of these women is unique, individual, and significant, and is in her place.
There are a lot of myths, just like in other professions. Especially when you hear a phrase from a client in an establishment: “Are the male sommeliers over, are there only girls left?”, it becomes unpleasant. But my team and I quickly dispel such myths.
How has participating in television projects affected your professional activity?
Thanks to participating in the project, I had the opportunity not only to tell guests of the establishment about wine but also to share knowledge with a much wider audience. This is a completely different level of communication — an opportunity to popularize wine culture, explain complex things in simple words, and open the world of wine to people.
My audience trusts me, so they are ready to listen to my professional, honest opinion about wine, which cannot but win them over. The television project helped me build my own stable brand, which allows me to speak louder and influence larger masses.
Is it easy today for a woman to build a career in a field where until recently men predominated?
To be honest, it all depends on character; of course, we may face prejudices and stereotypes, but I believe that confidence and perseverance are the best friends for building one’s own career. There are many men who failed to achieve success due to a weak character and self-doubt.
If you are a woman who strives to develop in the professional sphere, the most important thing is not to be afraid to open new doors. You should not perceive challenges as an obstacle: you need to show your knowledge, work on yourself, and prove your own value.
I believe that knowledge is important, but there are many smart people, and significantly fewer truly successful ones. Therefore, it is worth emphasizing not only professional skills but also character, perseverance, communication skills, and emotional intelligence. It is these qualities that help build the right communication and achieve results.
Photo: from the heroine’s archive